If you want to stand further back or forward on your skis you may want to consider remounting. You can remount your skis several times, but each remounting point should be at least 8mm from the last hole to provide the screws with the necessary strength. Source: Skis. You can remount your skis several times, but each new mounting point should sit far enough away so that the drilled holes are at least 8mm away from the previous holes. This helps to maintain the structural integrity of the ski and prevents screws from coming loose.
This means that each time you remount your skis you have less room to put your bindings, which means there is a technical upper limit for remounting your skis depending on the ski length and the size of the bindings. The more you remount your skis, the more you reduce its integrity. In reality, mounting twice will NOT be a problem and the ski can easily handle this. If you want a DIY project, try it on an old pair of skis first and get them safety checked by a professional before riding them.
Without the right tool your holes can either be not deep enough or too deep which can result in protruding pimples on the base of the ski. If done correctly, absolutely not. Old holes will be filled in with waterproof plugs and covered over for a smooth finish.
Photo: David Reddick. Thank you for signing up. Your information has been successfully processed! Out of bounds? Gear Guide The Best Women's Skis of From laying trenches to big-mountain touring, the best women's skis go as ha We recommend sticking with the recommended mounting point for best carving results. Have your mounting tech ignore the silver arrow on the ski and measure 8 cms back from true center. SOS: The suggested mounting point marked on the ski is 2.
We recommend sticking to this point for a true all-mountain ski experience. La Nieve: There is a dimple on the side the ski, at the center of the side cut, that marks the mounting point.
On our first generation La Neive skis, there is no marker indicating the mounting point on this ski; true center is found along the top of the Coalition logo in the middle of the ski. We recommend aligning the ball of the foot with true center for best ski performance. Rafiki: The suggested mounting point is 6 cms behind true center. Contact us at hello coalitionsnow. Where to Mount Ski Bindings Where you mount a binding on a ski will have a significant effect on how the ski performs.
If using a mechanical jig you can look down through the drill bushings and check how close to the old holes you are.
If using a paper template, punch out the screw locations with a paper punch so you can slide the paper around and see how your new holes relate to existing. If you overlap by only a few millimeters, simply move your binding location accordingly, usually rearward for recreational and backcountry skiing. If your new holes must overlap the old, then you need some careful fill work.
I usually fill the old holes with something like JB Weld or epoxy steel, and poke steel wool in the hole as well. Wait 48 hours at room temperature for a full cure before the next step.
After the epoxy hardens in the holes 48 hours at room temperature , I smooth it off with a sanding disk in a grinder. Whatever works for smoothing is fine, just avoid anything but cosmetic damage. Drilling overlapping holes is the tricky part. The idea is to prevent the edge of the existing hole from forcing the bit to the side and only drilling the epoxy out of the old hole.
Dealing with a metal layer is tougher. If your drilling begins in the metal, stepping the bit sizes will usually work. If you start in the epoxy fill, do the step-up routine till your bit encounters the metal edge. Keep it tight. Finish the hole with the correct size bit. If you mess up and end up drilling the epoxy out of an old hole, just re-fill and try again with a little side pressure while drilling.
I recommend saving a blotter with the cured fill epoxy on it, and smearing some of the screw placement epoxy on the original. You can thus observe any problems. One reason for using slow cure epoxy is the lack of heat which can soften existing epoxy or ski resin layers.
Another method of filling old holes for re-drilling is to epoxy hardwood plugs. This method has its advantages as the plugs can be more structural than the epoxy and steel wool method. Problem is the wood is super sensitive to moisture, so personally I always use the all-epoxy method. Yet another technique is to carefully bore holes for inserts such as Quiver Killer. Whatever the case, if you have access to a milling machine or high quality drill press, drilling overlapping holes can be done much more easily by clamping the ski to the machine and boring holes that are forced into perfect position by the rigidity of the machinery.
Note about taping holes and bit sizes: Ski shops use special drill bits for drilling skis, usually 4. Hey — this is great info. As for the bit sizes, I use standard 4mm bit and it works fine. Sometimes manufacturers tell you which bit to use -Hagan has nice labels on their skis with ski dimensions which also has the preferred drill size on it, which can be as small as 3.
Im buying a pair of Salomon Foils and i have been looking everywhere forf some info on drilling, i want to drill some freestyle bindings on them but should i drill them in the center? So what should i do?? Thanks, Will. Hi Lou I am glad that I found your site.
So happy to hear that I can shift the toes over just a faction. I will not be going back to Coast Mountain Sports Alberta again. Lou: I would like to mount a pair of Dynafit bindings on a pair of tele skis. I was wondering if there was any diiference in the construction of the ski that would prevent the tele boards from being able to handle the heel piece.
Is there any concern about mounting AT bindings on tele skis in general? Thanks, Eric. Hi Eric, no general concern and tele skis usually have a massive binding mounting plate that sometimes extends under the heel area. Im thinking about drilling my Rossignol bandits , so they could be tied to a shovel as an emergency sled if need be, Probably never get used in anger, but hey since since the shovel is designed for sled construction I might as well.
All the best, Brian. Do you recommend fatter screws or epoxy? Use a bit of epoxy. Awesome information. Any info on proper placement.
Most of what I hear is to center them. I am currently in the market for som pow skis and I found some I want but they have three mounts already. Is the 4th too much? I have a set of Solomon skis that I got from a friend. It looks like they have been mounted three to four times. I was considering mounting my bindings on them. I heard rumors that mounting more than three times is dangerous. Should I be concerned about drilling into them one more time? If so what should I take into consideration?
Thanks for you assistance and help. Mike D, sounds like that might be enough holes! At least I think they are Comforts, they have about 2. The Spirit 4s fit this set up very well, boot midpoint within 2mm of ski mark. Alternate would be just to switch to skiing the MtBakers or buy new pair of Coombacks and put Comforts on them. Hey Lou, great site you got here, I have a question regarding this post on how close can holes be next to each other.
I have a pair of Trab Duo Sint Aero skis that I purchased second hand, which were previously mounted with dyanfit speed heel pieces. I am putting Plum race heels on them and due to a very close boot size to the previous owner the front two holes will be close to touching previous holes. Also do you always recommend using epoxy?
Will this render the screws useless if I were to put these bindings on other skis down the road? Thanks ahead of time if you happen to respond to these questions. In those situations I use JBweld and a bit of steel wool to fill the old holes, as I figure I want them as strong as possible. Epoxy and glass fibers do pretty much the same thing.
Machine bits are V shaped and can wander when the V point hits on the edge of two different densities of materials. Twist wood bits in this size diameter, often have a centre point and cutting spurs on the outside diameter of the bit.
The centre spur fixes the start point and the cutting spurs make for a clean downward cut without bit wander. She has gone up to sizes and am end of adjustment. If I remount bindings do I need to remount front and rear bindings or can I move one or the other forward or backward? Thanks for any help you could be Jim. The skis already have a number 14 of holes in the toe area from moving the previous bindings Hammerheads around to play with different mount locations.
Should I be worried about so many holes in the skis or the proximity of the new holes to the old? I have been told that 1cm is the minimum distance that should be kept between holes, but I know you propound otherwise in your original response.
I have never torn a binding out of a ski, tele or alpine. In your original response you recommend moving backward for recreational and backcountry skiing. It feels like I am a bit farther forward on the skis than I would like. I am making the switch. I can hardly believe it myself, but my knees are thanking me already. Its a Marker Downhill style. They have been drilled twice for alpine bindings.. I want to mount a pair of 22 design Hammerheads- and I use Scarpa T1 boots….
I have tried to fill the holes in my old Atomic TM:Xs with epoxy, but I keep getting air bubbles in the epoxy. I have read that this can happen with foam core skis. Does anybody have any advice for how to prevent this from happening?
Also, the holes for my new bindings are going to have to overlap the existing holes. And would I be better off using something like a Quiver Killer insert to create, in effect, a larger screw with more surface area? I put three-pins on my Epochs and ended up overlapping holes. I use plastic boots and get air and crash hard on that setup.
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