Most bleach and hair color formulas use developer at either 10, 20, 30 or in some cases Depending on the strength of the developer it can also lift the hair color level a bit. This is why even after removing permanent hair color using color removal products the hair underneath will be lighter than your original virgin hair color. This is because you need to open the cuticle enough to allow for the natural color pigment to be removed from your hair.
Hair developer damages hair, as it opens the cuticle. So always use as low volume a developer as you can get away with provided it gives you the desired results. If you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. Less than that and you may be able to get away with 10 volume developer, and your grey hair will look like highlights. You can use 20 volume developer with bleach to lighten hair that is naturally blonde in a gentler fashion.
If your hair is not very damaged and you want a lighter and more long-lasting color, 30 volume developer can be a great option. If your hair is low porosity hair you may find that 30 volume developer works better as your hair is naturally more resistant to color. When you are looking to create highlights without bleach using high-lift hair color. This is because it will lift your hair up to four shades. If you are bleaching dark brown or black hair you may also need to use 40 volume developer, but keep in mind that this will be the most damaging for hair.
Last Updated on 28th September by Chauncey Morgan. An important part of coloring your hair yourself is figuring out what volume developer you should use. Developer, also known as an activator or even peroxide for short, is mixed with bleach or dye to lighten or color hair. When you buy box dye, there is usually two bottles one of them being hair dye and the other developer. Alternatively, you can buy hair dye or bleach and developer separately, and choose what volume developer you should use based on your hair condition, hair history, and desired result.
Guess which option will give you the best results when dying or bleaching your hair? In order to figure out what volume developer to use you need to first understand what is developer for hair and what does hair developer do. Developers are called activators, and without them hair dye would have absolutely no effect.
The developer helps the color penetrate the hair shaft and become permanent. Hydrogen peroxide developer lifts the cuticle layer of the hair and depending on the strength of the activator the cuticle will lift more or less. Hair developer levels refer to their oxidizing potential, or how much hydrogen peroxide they have.
Most bleach and hair color formulas use developer at either 10, 20, 30, or in some cases Depending on the strength of the developer it can also lift the hair color level a bit.
This is why even after removing permanent hair color using color removal products the hair underneath will be lighter than your original virgin hair color. With hair dye, a low volume developer is enough to lift the hair cuticle just enough for the pigment to slip inside. This is because you need to open the cuticle enough to allow for the natural color pigment to be removed from your hair. Hair developer damages hair, as it opens the cuticle.
So always use as low volume a developer as you can get away with provided it gives you the desired results. If you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. A 10 volume developer is only used to open the hair cuticle layer so the color molecules can deposit in the cortex for long-term results. When you want to achieve a lift of one o two levels of hair color. Less than that and you may be able to get away with 10 volume developer, and your grey hair will look like highlights.
You can use 20 volume developer with bleach to lighten hair that is naturally blonde in a more gentle fashion. A 30 volume developer allows you to lighten the hair while coloring by two or three levels and allows more pigment to embed into the hair shaft.
If your hair is not very damaged and you want a lighter and more long-lasting color, 30 volume developer can be a great option. If you have low porosity hair, you may find that a 30 volume developer works better as your hair is naturally more resistant to color.
When you are looking to create highlights without bleach using high-lift hair color. This is because it will lift your hair up to four shades. If you are bleaching dark brown or black hair you may also need to use 40 volume developer, but keep in mind that this will be the most damaging for hair.
If you are bleaching your hair at home it is much better and safer to do several rounds of bleaching with 30 or even 20 volume developer, and use loads of conditioning treatments and protein builders in between.
If you really need to lift your hair a lot, use Olaplex or a similar bond builder and possibly several bleaching sessions. Always keep the condition of your hair, and your scalp, at the top of your mind. This is why 20 Vol generally produces more vibrant color results than 10 Vol.
Most Ugly Duckling stylists use 20 Vol in the videos that we put out on Facebook. That is how they get those beautiful platinum and ultra white ash blonde results. Take a look at the pictures above. It's a very typical case.
The hair is really very brassy in certain areas and actually dark blonde in others. As a hairdresser you should really be using bleach to lift up the dark parts first. That would be the correct thing to do. What would not work is to tone with 10 Vol on this type of hair. So when I am doing grey hair coverage, that's level-on-level. So I use 10 Vol, Right? But once again, the fact that 10 Vol developer does not penetrate deeply into the hair cuticle will penalise your end result.
You will be softening the cortex more and depositing color pigments deeper, not just coating the outside. The hair color will also last longer that way. The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.
The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors anything beginning with the number is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer. No, it does not work like that. Whatever strength you use, the mix should always stay the same. People sometimes think they can put in more developer to achieve greater lift. Not true. You can add in a little more developer if you want a runnier mix in order to work fast. You can also add in a little less developer.
Both these cases are explained more fully later on. But in general, if your hair is too dark and you want to lift a lot, you need to adjust the developer strength as above, not the mix. If that does not give you the lift you are looking for, the answer is to use high lift color or bleach, not add in more developer! In general, it is better to measure using a professional mixing bowl or kitchen scales.
If you are new to coloring, we suggest you use weighing scales. Set the scale to zero with an empty coloring bowl on it. Then add in your color into the bowl and weigh again, so you know exactly how much you have out in. Do the same when you add in the developer. You can also measure color off of the percentage of tube squeezed. For example, Ugly Duckling color tubes contain 3. So if you are using a whole tube of Ugly Duckling color, you need 3.
This ratio will give you a smooth, creamy mix which will give you good product saturation. No, it will not do that. All bleaches are designed with a certain mix in mind. Ugly Duckling bleaches function very well with a mix and will give you the lift that you need.
For the root area and for level lifts, use 20 Vol developer and in most cases that should be perfect. For higher lifts, use 30 Vol developer. Re-apply if necessary if the hair is very dark. Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde mixed with 30 Vol developer in a mix. If it is way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color.
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